The South coast of New South Wales is much, much cheaper than the rest of the coast – mostly, I think, because the water is always cold (due to being, ya know, South-ish).
I rather hesitantly donned my antiquated swimming trunks and went to the beach with CJ. CJ happily plunged into the water at once. I walked in very cautiously, gasping at the chilly water every time it invaded another square centimetre of skin.
Over the course of about half an hour, I ventured forward until the water was somewhere between my waist and chest. At about that point, two things happened:
I started getting bored.
The wind picked up.
It all seemed like a very bad idea.
But then I spotted one of the rare waves had the even rarer quality of being in just the right spot. I jumped, paddled frantically, and it caught me.
Catching a wave is like being a very small child spun around by a very big adult. When you ARE an adult, and the one pushing you around is the ocean, it’s a wonderful, fast, weightless experience.
More plz 🙂